Jonathan Saunders’ Patchwork Triumph for Fall 2014 (Runway Review)


The Scene: The audience was greeted by a haunting scene in the picturesque grand hall of the Tate Britain Gallery, with static display TVs stacked high in piles among flood lights and cinematic lighting along the zigzagging seating display. Eerie music played as the eager viewers took their seats with Leigh Lezark, Atlanta de Cadenet, Natalie Massenet, Tallulah Harlech and Foxes just a few of the bustling front-rowers.

The Inspiration: There was an overwhelming influence of handmade design from patchwork appliqués to chunky knits. Saunders departed from his trademark digital print forms and embarked on a beautiful collection of rich fabrics and silhouettes with a range of reference points from 20s deco harlequin diamonds to patched family hand-me-downs.

The Look: An opulent display of color and texture for an ultra-feminine, powerful woman who can carry off delicate bias-cut shifts as well as boxy oversized jackets decorated in the thematic embroidered patchwork squares. Saunders' signature stripes and silks are in play, contrasted with heavy wool felts and surprisingly impressive quilted leather jackets. The loose floating silk maxis and layered leather culottes were a highlight, as well as the pre-war brown tights, all part and parcel of the impeccable styling by Katie Grand.

The Accessories: With such an eclectic explosion of design, it was left to simple Cutler and Gross sunglasses and shoes to accessorize. Christian Louboutin provided loud, colorful ankle boots, daring wedges and flat pumps finished in vibrant disco glitter.

The Beauty: Eyes were illuminated and lined in red with scarlet shadow against stark skin as well as a matte red lip. Luke Hersheson took on an extreme side-parting with the hair in a slick, oiled ponytail or combed down the scalp in a truly "bright young things" style.

The Takeaway: This is one of Jonathan Saunders' most interesting and inspiring offerings to date. Even with the collection's digital departure, his designs still come to life in 3D form.

All images: IMAXtree

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